WIRTER Yve

The watch industry has been shaped by how things are made. It began with strict control under guilds, shifted to collaboration, moved into mass production, and later evolved into integrated systems. Most brands followed this path. However, Audemars Piguet did not simply follow the trend. Instead, it selected and combined different methods, designing its own way of working. The recent revival of établissage is not a return to tradition, but a strategy to create differentiation through the way watches are made. This shows that value comes not from what is made, but from how it is made.

Établissage involves a network of numerous small workshops, often located in people's homes. MAH Musée d'art et d'histoire, Ville de Genève; Inv. AD3861. (Image: Audemars Piguet)

1. Control Before Scale: The Age of Guilds

In the early days, watchmaking was controlled by guilds. Only approved craftsmen could make watches. This ensured quality, but limited access and flexibility. At that time, value was not about how much you produced, but about who was allowed to produce.

2. From Control to Collaboration

After the Enlightenment, guilds disappeared and production became more open. In places like Vallée de Joux, craftsmen worked in small workshops, each producing different parts. These parts were then combined into a finished watch. This system, known as établissage, shifted the focus from individual work to collaboration.

3.The Rise of Mass Production

In the late 19th century, the industry changed again. Companies like Waltham Watch Company introduced mechanized and standardized production. This was showcased at the Philadelphia World Fair 1876. From this point on, success was defined by speed and scale.

4. A Different Path

Despite this shift, Audemars Piguet chose a different path. It did not fully move into mass production. Instead, it kept a collaborative approach. This limited output, but created a different kind of value. Each watch became more than a product; it became the result of a process.

5. The Return of Integration

After the quartz crisis, brands began to bring production back in-house. Design, manufacturing, and quality control were integrated. This allowed brands to manage the entire process more consistently.

6. Why Établissage Matters Today

Today, établissage is returning with a new role. Audemars Piguet uses it alongside integrated production. This combination allows both control and creativity. It is not about going back, but about building a more flexible system.

The watch industry did not move in a straight line. It shifted from control to collaboration, to mass production, and back to integration. One idea remains consistent. Value is not defined by the product itself, but by how it is created. In the end, the brands that define their own process are the ones that stand out.